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Anna Ivanyan debuted this Armenian market in 2017, naming her business for an ancient city that Armenian king Tigranes the Great established which is now part of Turkey. Everything from the market’s large butcher case is available to grill by the pound over charcoal across the parking lot in Tigranakert’s production kitchen. Start with luscious beef lule, marinated iki bir (pork belly), and beautifully charred marinated sweetbreads, which are a fairly uncommon find. Plates come with rice and plenty of salads and dips to fill the two other compartments in a Styrofoam container.
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Dvin Meat Market
This inconspicuous restaurant resides on Plaza Ararat’s back end in Unit Z and serves great charcoal-grilled kebabs to customers who eat at tables that wrap around trees. Longtime grill master Vic Sarkisyan is from Yerevan, Armenia’s capital, and has been a consistent presence in a tile-lined kitchen for Armenian-Russian-American owners who took over Hamlet’s Kitchen in 1997. Their pork kebabs are particularly great, especially khrchik, bone-in rib tip chunks that still have cartilage attached. This cut provides a wonderful chew that sheyka (boneless baby pork) can’t match.
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Kebab Destinations in Los Angeles
Of course, great kebabs aren’t completely limited to the (818) or the Middle East and Caucasus. Thanks to the proliferation of restaurants, butcher shops, and street stands that understand how to grill, skewered meat has never been better in LA., making it tough to narrow this list down to 16 options. As previously noted, other Armenian meat markets also grill notable kebabs, but they require advance notice.
Sam’s Kebab
If you are in the mood for delicacy, there is no better place to start than with a plate of the excellent bolani. These flat triangles of crisply fried dough can be stuffed with potatoes and cilantro, or with a sweet spread of pumpkin, but the most interesting bolani of all contain a layer of scallions and leeks. They are something like Chinese scallion pancakes, although they’re not made the same way at all. Sharing a basket with the bolani will be a portion of yogurt-mint sauce with garlic. It would probably be good on anything in the restaurant, but it has an especially transformative effect on bolani. The elder Mr. Ghiasi contributed recipes he remembers from Afghanistan, and does much of the cooking.
Stepson Salimit Soheil became the managing partner 10 years ago and greatly expanded prepared food offerings, including charcoal-grilled kebabs on weekends in the back parking lot. He marinates skewers in a proprietary marinade that includes olive oil, fresh and powdered garlic, onions, bell peppers, and saffron. These flavors and the charcoal smoke infuse wonderful flavor in koobideh (ground beef or chicken), salmon, chicken thighs, and Cornish game hen.
Biriyani rice (pulao) prepared with lamb shank and mild spices. The bolani, which are flat, chewy pockets of fried dough filled with a thin layer of potato, mashed pumpkin, or scallions, are also first-rate. The borani banjan, or Afghan-style fried eggplant, is also great. You’ll want to start with a platter of Dunya’s very good mantu, six plump, steamed Afghan dumplings bursting with seasoned ground beef, onion, and cilantro.
Welcome toBiriyani kabob house
Less common delicacies include Cervena venison ribs, Kurobuta pork, and marinated branzino chunks. Aluminum containers come with grilled tomatoes and peppers. Supplement from a grab-and-go refrigerated case by the entrance, which showcases salads and dips like kidney beans, yogurt cucumber, and several eggplant preparations. This Iranian market has expanded in size and scope since Mory Pourvasei opened the business in 1987.
In 2021, they shifted grilling operations to nearby Aria BBQ. This grab-and-go strip mall restaurant with a steer horn logo offers no seating, but they do grill a la carte kebabs over gas, all available for sale by the skewer. Beef lule, chicken lule, and boneless chicken thighs are satisfying, but flame-red hot wings, drummettes infused with spicy paste, are even more addictive. Scored pork baby back ribs with crispy topside fat also stand out.
Skewers come in lavash wraps or on plates with parsley, chopped white onions, sliced tomato, and enough lavash to form a pillow. Hovik Martirosyan and wife Alvard turned their tiny side street restaurant into a beloved Armenian kebab destination with help from social media savvy son Armen. Mini Kabob has built a national reputation in publications like The New York Times, which included them in “America’s Favorite Restaurants” in 2021. The family displays savvy with open-flame cooking on a workhorse gas grill behind their small counter.
Kebab plates come with rice, grilled tomato and pepper, and a potent red pepper sauce folded with onions, paprika and parsley. Sam Dumanyan is from a small town called Jrvezh located east of Yerevan in Armenia. He had a restaurant there and after he moved to Los Angeles, opened his eponymous restaurant in Van Nuys in 2021. Sam’s Kebab touts waterfall and blue-sky photo murals and specializes in skewers that he plucks from an enticing display case by the register and grills over charcoal either out back or in front. Before the pandemic, Art’s Bakery was best known for ponchiks, fluffy Armenian donuts with fillings like fruit and custard.
A printed menu lists proteins they can cook in an open-mouthed, stainless steel gas grill, but it’s just as easy to pull from display cases. The left case touts raw cuts like whole chicken, beef ribeye, and lamb leg. The right case holds marinated meats like pork baby back ribs, spicy chicken thighs, and lamb lule.
Some restaurant owners go into the business with an implicit idea of giving their neighbors a deeper view of where they’re from. This was a major inspiration for Basir Ghiasi, who came to New York from Soviet-occupied Afghanistan, and his son, Mohamed, who began plans to open an Afghan restaurant in Brooklyn last year after the Taliban retook control of Kabul.
Armenian Lunch Truck serves excellent shawarma, and the action extends to the sidewalk, where cooks tend to an adjacent charcoal grill. Beef lule (ground meat), marinated pork ribs, and iki bir (cubed belly meat) are all notably luscious and smoky. Plates come with rice, Armenian salad, tzatziki (yogurt folded with minced cucumber), spicy tomato sauce, and grilled tomato and jalapeño.
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