Thursday, May 2, 2024

Restaurant Review: Dunya Kabab House Stands Up for Afghan Culture The New York Times

dunya kabab house

Options include ikra, spicy, smoky eggplant dip; and sweet, creamy shredded beet salad sprinkled with crushed walnuts. Both come in multiple iterations of kebab—ground for long, slender kofta, or sliced into juicy cubes, then skewered and charred on the grill—as well as in korma, a tomato-based stew of Indian origin, redolent of ginger and garlic. Considering LA has such large populations from countries with kebab-rich traditions like Armenia and Iran, it’s natural that skewered meats are a strength across LA County. Prominent pockets in Glendale, North Hollywood, Sunland and the western San Fernando Valley are particularly strong.

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Skewers come in lavash wraps or on plates with parsley, chopped white onions, sliced tomato, and enough lavash to form a pillow. Hovik Martirosyan and wife Alvard turned their tiny side street restaurant into a beloved Armenian kebab destination with help from social media savvy son Armen. Mini Kabob has built a national reputation in publications like The New York Times, which included them in “America’s Favorite Restaurants” in 2021. The family displays savvy with open-flame cooking on a workhorse gas grill behind their small counter.

Restaurant Review: Dunya Kabab House Stands Up for Afghan Culture (Published 2022) - The New York Times

Restaurant Review: Dunya Kabab House Stands Up for Afghan Culture (Published .

Posted: Mon, 24 Oct 2022 07:00:00 GMT [source]

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Salmon and shrimp make an appearance in the kabab section as well. This stretch of Coney Island Avenue is pretty grim, at least for pedestrians, but it’s only about a block away from the far-friendlier Cortelyou Road, so don’t get deterred. Still, it’s hard to imagine anyone, hipster or not, feeling any more at home at Little Flower than at Dunya, which Ghiasi co-owns with his father, Basir.

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Highlights include juicy beef and chicken lule skewers and chicken thigh served atop fluffy rice with creamy red pepper dusted hummus, blistered tomato and jalapeño, onion, and parsley. Complimentary sides include silky eggplant caviar crafted with smoky roasted eggplant and bell peppers. He first showcased the family’s culinary traditions at Aria Meat Market in Burbank, which dates to 2013. This butcher shop used to grill kebabs, and not just sell raw proteins.

This inconspicuous restaurant resides on Plaza Ararat’s back end in Unit Z and serves great charcoal-grilled kebabs to customers who eat at tables that wrap around trees. Longtime grill master Vic Sarkisyan is from Yerevan, Armenia’s capital, and has been a consistent presence in a tile-lined kitchen for Armenian-Russian-American owners who took over Hamlet’s Kitchen in 1997. Their pork kebabs are particularly great, especially khrchik, bone-in rib tip chunks that still have cartilage attached. This cut provides a wonderful chew that sheyka (boneless baby pork) can’t match.

dunya kabab house

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What Afghanis Eat, at Dunya Kabab House - The New Yorker

What Afghanis Eat, at Dunya Kabab House.

Posted: Fri, 30 Sep 2022 07:00:00 GMT [source]

Offal lovers will appreciate more intense lamb hearts and livers. Plates come with grilled vegetables, potent torshi (pickled vegetables), and either lavash or sangak, a pull-apart whole-wheat flatbread. Vernatoun is a restaurant and banquet hall that’s excelled at cooking Armenian comfort food in the back corner of a Glendale strip mall since 2021.

Saghar Fanisalek hails from Shiraz and brings modern touches to Iranian cuisine at her sleek Westwood restaurant. She and Taste of Tehran even appeared on Top Chef Season 13. Cornish hen is also notable, marinated in yogurt, saffron, onion, particularly good with zereshk polo (barberry rice). Trout might not technically qualify as a kebab, but this flaky butterflied white fish is marinated with garlic, yogurt, and saffron and sports crispy, savory skin, and is worth ordering.

Dunya Kabab House opened last spring just off Cortelyou on Coney Island Avenue

Sarkisyan limits seasoning to salt, pepper, paprika, and onion so the meat still shines. Beef lule and chicken lule (a blend of thigh and breast meat) resemble juicy accordions. Bigger ticket items include succulent lamb chops and big rectangular sturgeon chunks with fatty skin. Emin Davoudi-Chigani runs Foothill Market & Deli in a Sunland strip mall and spun off the butcher shop as Meat Guys in early 2021.

Lump mesquite charcoal bags are piled up behind a kitchen window, giving customers a small taste of their process. Luscious lule (ground meat) skewers center on either beef chuck roll or chicken thigh, which get seasoned with onions and spices and beautifully express charcoal smoke. Pork baby back pork ribs sport nice sears that don’t actually lock in juices, as the myth states, but clearly still help boost eating enjoyment.

Scour their refrigerated case for complementary salads and dips. Aria Butcher Shop also operates down Glenoaks Boulevard in Glendale, but they don’t grill at that location. The Kirakosyan family has parked their vivid truck in front of NoHo’s Royal Fresh Super Market since 2019.

Simon and Angelia Grigoryan recently expanded this Glendale institution, which dates to 1998, adding an exhibition kitchen with a smoldering charcoal grill and fridge featuring five tiers of grill-ready skewers. Highlights include beef lule kebabs flecked with melted mozzarella and jalapeño, baby pork rib tips, and boneless country-style baby pork ribs. Plates come with fire-roasted tomato and mild Anaheim chile, lavash, raw onions and parsley, fluffy basmati rice or sliced oven-baked potatoes and a choice of two sides. Spinach yogurt salad and Armenian salad both lend welcome brightness. Proshyan is a street in Yerevan with a historic reputation for barbecued meat. This nighttime stand in North Hollywood occupies a doublewide red pop-up tent on the sidewalk in front of El Super market and hangs a small Armenian flag by their spit.

Proshyan serves some of LA’s best pork shawarma and grills kebabs over glowing mesquite charcoal embers. They mold beef and chicken lule (made with ground thigh) around stainless steel and also cook marinated pork shoulder chunks that are notably juicy for such lean meat. Other options include iki bir (marinated pork belly), iki bir skewered with skin-on potatoes, and chicken breast.

Our special ingredients and cooking style is unique than other South Asian restaurant. We believe in tasty food which bring you back again and again. Biriyani Kabob House is proud is a family restaurant which give you home made style food experience. Our top quality food made by our top chef with our own recipe. Other entree-sized offerings include more chicken, several lamb dishes (a stew, a shank, some chops), and a couple of steaks.

Less common delicacies include Cervena venison ribs, Kurobuta pork, and marinated branzino chunks. Aluminum containers come with grilled tomatoes and peppers. Supplement from a grab-and-go refrigerated case by the entrance, which showcases salads and dips like kidney beans, yogurt cucumber, and several eggplant preparations. This Iranian market has expanded in size and scope since Mory Pourvasei opened the business in 1987.

There’s a lengthy list of kababs available, all fired to order and served with a mountain of excellent Afghan rice. It’s a lot of meat, but vegetables get plenty of love, and seasoning, at Dunya, too. The mixed vegetarian platter offers heaping portions of sabzi, a hearty, almost-creamed spinach dish with onions and spices; bamia, which are whole okra stewed to a pleasant softness in tomato sauce; and some off-menu cauliflower. With many of the dishes here, you are encouraged to enjoy the restaurant’s sauces with abandon. There’s a homemade garlic yogurt sauce, a more fiery red pepper sauce, and a cilantro-based green sauce that’s even livelier still.

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